Remeberance

  The past few weeks have been a whirlwind of activity!  J and I were lucky enough to have a couple friends come and stay with us.  We didn't rest for a second and soaked in as much as Paris as we could together.  We were also lucky enough to make a trip out of the city to the Normandy area.  Since today is 9/11, I thought it would be a good time to share our experience at Omaha Beach, the American Cemetery and some Normandy cities. 

  Before 9/11 finding scars of war left on our country wasn't easy, not to say that there aren't any (Civil War battlefields come to mind).  It is completely different here in France.  You can't walk a few blocks and not come across bullet holes or evidence of shellings, mostly from WWII.  It's embedded in every town, reminders of the not so distance past and the sacrifice given by all.  Some towns were so damaged it is wondrous that any building was left standing at all.  In Caen (where we stayed the night), there was heavy damage, but the Chateau built in 1060 still stands.

Eglise Saint-Pierre in Caen that we visited in the early morning fog.

Le Chateau de Caen.

  After walking around Caen in the morning we drove to the Normandy Beaches.  It was a beautiful day for a walk on the beach.  The beach was so peaceful, at first glance there seems to be no reminders of D-Day. 

Omaha beach.

The hills behind the beach.  From here it looks like any other part of the landscape.

  As you walk up the hill pockets of the war left behind begin to appear.  Old carved out bunkers and leveled out pieces of land where heavy artillery stood still remain.  It's surreal to climb down into one of the bunkers and look out down the hill.  This is where machine guns fired relentlessly at the men on the beaches.  The terror and the anguish are nearly palpable, yet softened by the beautiful scenery.

View from a bunker.

 Truly the most powerful part of the experience was at the American Cemetery.  The Visitors Center, which was dedicated in 2007, was incredible.  There were so many personal stories of men (and a few women) who fought, died, and were true heroes.  The entire experience is beyond words on how it touches you and brings you in to that time.  If you are in France for any period of time, make this a priority.  The cemetery itself is beautifully laid out and landscaped meticulously.  It over looks the sea and there is a true sense of calm and peace there. 

~President Truman

  I feel like I should end with something profound or some piece of wisdom.  Truthfully, I have none, words don't really feel like enough when it comes to summing up an era of war.  Needless to say, I am thankful for all soldiers and volunteers, men and women, who stand up everyday and fight for the United States.  It was a privilege to be able to visit such sacred ground.

~L

Happy Belated Bastille Day!

  Some of you may know, but I had another flare or iritis.  Since this affects my eye and vision, blogging was put on the back burner.  I have been on the mend though and I am ready to get back into the swing of things!  First, big shout out to the French healthcare system that has given me superb care and has been relatively easy to navigate despite the language barrier. 
 
  Anyways, for the La Fête Nationale I was determined to watch the fireworks (feux d'artifice) on the Champs de Mars which is a length of grass (and other bits) that lay at the feet of the Eiffel Tower.  The fireworks are set off from behind the tower and also incorporate a laser light show installed on the tower as well.  So, you might imagine that the Champs de Mars is quite the popular place to go on Bastille Day.  J and I got there early to have a picnic and stake claim to a piece of grass.  Here are a few pictures to show the crowds grow:

Early in the afternoon.  Just a few peeps so far.

  As you can see, it was a beautiful day!  The picnic we put together and a day in the sun was a good time in itself. 

Here's J channeling his inner Baba!

 

Things are starting to fill up!

Oh, it's going to get even more crowded than this!

  As it got more and more crowded it eventually turned into standing room only.  The crowd was mostly friendly and never got pushy.  We had plopped down next to an Australian couple that have lived in France for several years now.  They were super nice and we shared our cheeses because that's a French thing to do. I would recommend making a pit stop to the port-a-pots before it gets too crowded though.  I had to leap tippy toed to get back to our spot when I made a last minute dash!  Also, as a warning, none of the markets near the Eiffel Tower are allowed to sell any booze on the 14th, so bring your own or buy some at a premium from the "entrepreneurs" roaming the champs.  I successfully bargained with a nice "business" man for a bottle of bubbly.  This was a pretty big achievement for me because not only was it in french, but I am horrible at haggling (a national pastime in France).

  The firework theme was "Liberté, égalité, fraternité" (liberty, equality, brotherhood).  Now, here are some gratuitous firework shots, cue the oohing and aahing:

The French embracing their new gay marriage equality!

  The fireworks lasted forever, I thought it was the grand finale three separate times.  I could easily bore you with about a hundred more pictures!  I'll save it for a slideshow when I come visit the states.  I did find it amusing though that 80% of the music that accompanied the fireworks was American.  Including a piece of music that could only be more incongruous then hardcore gansta rap (which is played surprisingly often in the grocery stores), any guesses?  Try this.  HA!  Oh people of France, you make me smile!  Overall, it truly was quite a fantastic sight and beautiful night.  I feel really lucky that we were there and that I can share a little piece of it with you all. 

  Stayed tuned for more to come as I catch up on a back log of posts.
~ L

Bones

   Guess where we went??  Hint: See above picture. If you guessed the Catacombs you would be right.  A friend from school, J, and I visited the Catacombs this past week. It was quite an interesting tour and by Paris standards a pretty good value.  I should have taken a picture of the line, it really never ends!  We got there an hour before they opened and there was a small line already forming.  By the time they opened the line was already 3 hours long.  There were literally people being dropped of by the tour busload.  So, pro tip: get there early.

 The Catacombs basically came about because the rotting bodies in the sub-par cemeteries inside of Paris were infiltrating the water system and overflowing into unsuspecting basements around town.  So, they decided to haul 6 million remains to the old quarry system underground Paris.  At some point the workman decided to arrange the bones into interesting designs.

  Overall, it was a nice way to spend a morning, especially a hot one.  There were lots of steps and slippery paths, so I would recommend only for the sure-footed.  Also, according to the French warning sings, people with a "nervous disposition" should take caution and stay away!  I'm not exactly sure what that means and why, but it sounds so adorable.  The French really do have a way with words.
~L

Je parle francais?

  I guess an apology is due to all my loyal followers (you know, those related to me) for not posting more regularly these past few weeks.  Je suis vraiment desolée.  I guess I have been a little tied up having the French language crush my soul.  Seriously!  French is not an easy language.  I fumble and stumble, hum and haw, just to make a barely understandable sentence.  There are SIXTEEN vowels in french!  For those keeping count, that's 12 more than English (8 more if you consider the different sounds available to make).  Good gravy!  They all start sounding the same, but a mispronunciation is evidently very confusing to the french.  I really should get a necklace or sign of some sort that apologizes up front for my shotty language skills.  For my defense, I wouldn't really say I am that great at English. 

  Though, I must say I have learned beaucoup since starting at my school.  You should of heard me thoroughly destroy the language before I arrived.  I have also had the immense pleasure of meeting some truly great people who can relate to all the same things that I feel, frustrations mostly, but the good as well!  I never thought I would have such an international group of friends.  As I close up my time at school I thought I might show you some of the things we have been up to these past few months.

  My school is actually in a beautiful old building, go figure right?

  If you didn't catch on, I go to Alliance Française.  I'm taking the intensive classes, 4 hours each morning, Monday through Friday.  It's 100% in french and each of my teachers have been very helpful and help take the edge off learning by injecting some fun.  I still have lots more to learn, but I am going to take a break until the new year.  J and I have lots of upcoming traveling plans and I would miss too much school for my own good.  Of our few French friends they all seem to have faith that I will be communicating like a pro in no time.  Bets are on.

La Tour

  What!?!  I haven't posted in forever and I am going to bore you with *another* post about the Eiffel Tower?  You think it was the national symbol of Paris or even France at that.  Don't fret, this post is about a different tower, La Tour Montparnasse.  Before we go any farther, click that link!  Seriously, it is pretty sweet and it will give you a good idea of where J and I live because it is just a few blocks from Montparnasse Tower.  We can see it from our apartment's balcony:

  For a few euros (actually it was kind of steep for an elevator ride, the Louvre was cheaper) you can take a ride to the top.  It is the highest point in Paris at 210 meters.  I'm not sure what 210 meters means, but it seemed really high when I was up there.  Okay, I looked it up and it converts to 689 feet, still unrelatable to me.  I do not have a brain that understands height or distances well.  Anyways, they have an open air viewing patio at the top that you can enjoy and take in the sights.  Here are some pictures from my trip:

The viewing area from the top of Montparnasse.

The other Tower.  I guess it did make it into this post after all!

Montparnasse Cemetery, no Jim Morrison's tomb is not here.

More Eif and a bit of perspective.

 J and I want to try to get up there at sunset on a nice day and get some nice pictures that way.  They are open until 11:30p so we could grab some night pictures too.  Like most things in Paris and the surroundings it would have been best if I bought my tickets ahead of time.  Doing this would have saved me probably 20 minutes of waiting in line.  You may have noticed that J and I took no pictures of the Palace at Versailles.  That's because the line was basically just a giant cluster of people in no particular order.  This seems to happen a lot here.  Be prepared for line cutters or get the insiders track so you can skip some of the congestion.

 Since I don't have anything else to add, let me close with this:

What.was.that?!?

 

Gardens at Versailles

All apologies for the delay between posts...

J has had the last 3 days off work for VE Day and Armistice Day.  We've been out and about around Paris - you know, touristy things like the Louvre, Versailles, and outdoor markets.

I figured now would be a good time to post a few pics of our recent outings.  Feel free to PM me if you would like links to the various albums.

Statue at the Marie Antoinette gazebo

Painting (MA ?) inside the Petite Trianon

Sitting room at Versailles

Gazebo at Versailles

 Window latches in the Petite Trianon

Just one of hundreds of amazing statues at Versailles

Happy self picture...difficult to do with a Rebel T3i

We will post some more topics soon....

A Nose Knows

  If I want to keep the blog name relevant then I need to add more whining!  It can't all be sunshine and the Eiffel Tower.  So, I think a lists of things that induce whining from me is in order.  In no particular order:

A) What's that smell?  Really, it is more than just smell, it lingers in the nose and becomes a taste.  Some days I swear I can feel it on my teeth.  There are basically three distinct smells that are reoccurring throughout the city:

1.  Dirt.  Paris might be beautiful and picturesque, but it is dirty.  It's hardcore thousand year old dirt too.  This is what I feel on my teeth.  The taste is there, but I can't really describe it well, tastes like dusty dirt.  Yum.  This whole city could use a good powerwashing.
2.  Piss, all kinds.  It really hits you in the Metro, again with the tasting.  It is a mixture of dog and human in various stages of freshness and strength.  I'm starting to think these smells are why scarfs are so popular in the city, nose protection.
3. B.O.  It isn't even hot here yet, but the level of body odor smells has definitely had directly proportional rise to the rise in temperature.  I can't wait for August.  Look, I already feel a little awkward jammed in to the metro.  I am a girl who is used to her personal space and that goes out the window when crowds of people are trying to pack into a metro car. Being that close though really familiarizes you with others personal hygiene habits.  I don't want to play into the whole French people stink, they really don't.  Most people smell just fine, but it only takes one rotten apple...

B) Why did you stop right there?!?  Multiple people a day will just come to a sudden and complete stop right in front of me.  There is no attempt to move to the side out of the way as to not have people run right smack into you.  It's the worst in the metro.  People will just point blank stop in the middle of everything.  An old woman stopped completely right at the top of the stairs, I nearly sent her flying! 

C) My medicine is FREE?!  Okay, so this isn't me whining at all.  This is my complete and utter relief.  The medicine I am on is quite expensive out of pocket.  Hell, it was nearly $200 a month with insurance in the states.  Every year the insurance companies would try to make it more difficult to get the medicine so I would switch to something cheaper, alternatives that I have tried and didn't work.  Here though, it is FREE.  FREE!   No shakedowns or jumping through hoops, no stress, and no getting letters in the mail saying my medicine isn't covered anymore.  Yes, it may be higher taxes here, but so far I have no complaints for the benefits received.   Also, I got into a doctor the day after calling for the appointment with a very kind doctor that speaks English. 

 So, when you visit Paris, make sure you are prepared for some strong smells, pack scarves so you look stylish as well!  You'll need to learn to keep an eye on the people in front of you, but also on the ground for rogue dog poop (seriously it's everywhere).  Despite these small annoyance, Paris is treating J and I well.

~L

Le Tour Eiffel

  The Eiffel Tower has become one of my key navigation pieces.  If I am lost I can usually look to the sky, find the tower, and know my bearings well enough.  I have never been very good at knowing N, E, S, W type directions.  They seem to fly out the window when you are here in Paris anyway.  The roads here are not parallel, not even close.  All the roads make triangles that end in a circle.  You may be walking two streets that were at one point parallel, but now they cross.  It is utterly boggling to my directionally inept brain.  Just when you think you know, boom...not even close.  So, best case, you look and spot a tip of the Eif and know you can at least orient to that.  Luckily, J and I are on one side of the river Seine (left bank) and we can see Le Tour when we are on the way to the metro.  Here's a picture of the Eiffel Tower from our closest metro:

  Only a few stops up is the Trocadero exit.  I was running errands to our bank, which is off this exit, and could not resist the sunny day and opportunities that this exit offered.  Truly, this is the best exit to take when wanting to view the Eiffel.  It lets you off onto a viewing area between to museums, which leads to the fountain park that leads to the Tower itself.  Here are some pictures:

  This is where everyone holds out two fingers to look like they are pinching the Tower.  So many tourists, so little time...

  Here, you can see the tall building just to the left of the tower, it is Tour Montparnasse.  J and I live in that district...kind of puts things in perspective.

  This is a picture from the fountains.  What a great day to run errands and run into this.  Struggling with the language and the lack of community have been compensated by living so close to beauty and old world loveliness around every corner.   I look forward to exploring more!
~L

Seeing Red

  If you didn't already know, the three cats and I made it alive to Paris!  The cats are slowly getting used to the new (much smaller) place.  They seem to like it though and have already found some favorite napping spots.  So having said that, lets talk about me!

  I was going to write about selling the house and then I got cut in line on several different occasions here in France, but then I started cleaning the apartment.  This place is Dirty (note the capital "D")!  I actually have several different theories about the guy that lived here last.  I'm speculating it is a guy by the amount of pee stains I scrubbed off the bathroom wall.  I'm not saying it couldn't be a woman, but she would have worked really hard.  My theories about the previous tenant stem from the amount of red streaks I've been scrubbing off everything.  Here there are in no particular order:

1) The guy had a super ambitious rouge toddler who was left alone with a red crayon.  Now, this was my favorite theory first until I kept running across red streaks that were near impossible for me to reach, even standing on a chair.  Granted, I may not be very tall, but I like to think that I am taller than most toddlers out there.  So, either this kid had amazing leaping capabilities, a ladder, or this just isn't' a plausible theory.

2)  I've just unwittingly became an accessory after the fact by cleaning up a crime scene, if not multiple ones.  I don't watch enough CSI to know what dried up blood stains that have been half cleaned look like, but I feel like what's on the walls could be close.  It seems like the guy started cleaning the red streaks, found it to hard, and stopped.  Then, he realized that he was horrible at cleaning, but quite skilled at making a mess.  In turn, he made a bigger mess of said crime scene in order to disguise the evidence.  Nicely played.

3)  This may sound like the silliest theory yet (wait, sillier than #2?), but it is currently my favorite.  The guy that lived here before...wait for it...wore a ring made out of red wax.  It has to be true!  I'm sure they make them.  I really don't know how else to explain the copious amounts of red streaks.

  Feel free to conjecture, unfortunately I am in a current state of disarray since our air shipment just arrived as well or I would post mysterious red streak pictures.  Stay clean!

~ L

Game Changer

  My life has been changed.  I can never again order falafel unless it's at L'as du Fallafel.  It was hands down the best falafel ever.  The rest of the patties I have loved have been put to shame, serious shame.  I stopped to eat the wrap in the street and I was *this.close* to fighting some straggly looking pigeons for the bits I dropped on the ground.  I mean, they were lucky they looked a little mangey and that I felt sorry for them.  Anyways, if you come visit J and I, this will be for sure one of your first meals and you can thank me for showing you all its glory. 

  The guy in the hat with the brown shirt takes your order and money before you get to the window.  I thought I was getting scammed.  Now that I know the tastiness that awaits me I would have traded my purse!   Hmmm, maybe not the purse I had today, but another purse for sure.

  Taadaa!  Just posting this picture is making me hungry!  Not only are the falafel balls super tasty, but the pita comes stuffed with all kinds of tasty bits.  When they ask if you want it "piquant" just nod your head "oui".  I hope you are hungry now....I am.

Feed Me

  Since I don't really feel like pontificating on much today, I figure I'll just show some gratuitous pictures of the food we've been eating.


Look at that giant meringue!  This massive proportion seems to be the way they are made in Paris.  It lasted me three days!  Otherwise, this is a typical lunch that J and I have experienced; a jambon (ham) sandwich.  This is an integral part to my new carb only diet.  This particular lunch is from Banette in the 15th and it was quite tasty.


There is definitely no lack of "libanais" food in Paris.  Right down the street from our current hotel is El Fares, so we decided to give it a try.  We split some hummus and both got the falafel.  It was very tasty and you got so much!  This could be a dangerous place to live next to!


Le Beau Violet is a tiny, tiny restaurant that has no lack of character for sure!  There is only a small bar separating you from the kitchen, so you get to experience the meal as it is cooked as well.  The two gentleman that prepared and served our food were very nice and helpful.  J and I couldn't figure out all the words and they didn't know all the English, but we figured out enough together to enjoy an amazing meal (the staff was in no way rude or put off by our language barrier).  I had an amazing sausage (I have no idea what it was made out of, but it was tasty!) and J tried goose for the first time.  I sneaked a bite and it was surprisingly good.  This place was probably my favorite meal so far and I would recommend it to anyone I know.




  So, this is a small taste of our parisienne culinary experience so far.  I look forward to trying more places and more delicious bites with you.

~ L

Random Observations

  Here are a few random observations I have come up with from "living" in the 15th arrondissement in Paris the past 5 days.

1) Watch your step!  Seriously, every other step there is a dog turd waiting to ruin your day.  Evidently Parisiennes detest cleaning up after their dogs, especially in this particular neighborhood.  It really shouldn't be so hard considering there are trash cans every 20 feet or so.  (Meters anyone?).  To add to the irony there is a billboard just outside our hotel that basically tells people to pick up the turds.  I saw a guy yesterday use a doggie bag to do his part and I felt like I should give him a high five....I wonder if they do that here.

2) Bread.  I don't think I have had a meal yet that hasn't involved some sort of bread item.  Guess what, I don't feel bad about it at all!  I already have a carb problem and then you tempt me with fresh baked bread smells wafting from every street corner and it is officially game over.  J and I have walked a ton though, so hopefully all will even out. 

3) Cheese and wine.  As if the bread wasn't dangerous enough!  J and I bought a giant hunk of Brie (200g - conversion? anyone?) and it was only $1.50 U.S.!!  Gah!  To make matters worse (or better, not sure yet) we haven't come across a bottle of wine over $10 US.  Zoinks!  If you come and visit you may have to scrape dried up cheese off my hungover face!  If you do that for me, I will at least reciprocate.

4) The French aren't rude.  Look people, I barely speak French....I couldn't hold a conversation with a 5 year old.  Yet, I have been able to order meals, buy a phone, buy more minutes for that phone, and other daily processes because everyone has been patient and helpful with my subpar communication skills.  It hasn't even just been helpful, but also pleasant and I am grateful to all the people here for making my first few days enjoyable.

That's it for now, I'm sure there are more to come.
Au revoir!

Departure/Arrival

  Well, we are safely planted in Paris, so the flight was successful.  Actually, the flight was fairly enjoyable for being a pseudo-red-eye.  We left at 5:50p in Cincinnati and landed at 8:00a in Paris though the flight was only 8 hours.  Paris is 6 hours ahead of Eastern time which adds up to the additional time.  J and I flew Delta.  Unfortunately, neither of us noticed that my boarding ticket had my maiden name on it.  Even though I changed my name this summer, I am still not all that used to it being mine!  Well, security at the airport noticed right away, yikes!  Luckily, I still had a non-expired military ID with my maiden name on it, thank goodness because I'm not sure what would have happened if I didn't!  I probably would have got the full terrorist treatment. 
  The flight itself was enjoyable.  We had dinner and breakfast served to us, both of which were good as far as airplane food is concerned.  The highlight for sure was the free wine and the flight attendant had a generous pour, thank you Delta!  They also had a nice selection of movies to watch on a screen on the back of the seat in front of us.  J and I watched Argo for free, which I figures makes up for missing the Oscars.  The rest of the flight was fine, but economy isn't exactly the best seat to catch some sleep in.  So, when we arrived to the hotel we were pleasantly surprised to find that they had a clean room for us when we arrived, even though it was a few hours before official check-in.  Naturally, we took a nice long nap.  Still, as a write this a few days later, neither of us is quite on Paris time yet.  A few more naps and we might be there!